Over the years from various sources, we have compiled a lot of helpful information. Here are the weekly tips first found in our newsletters, along with plants and products that we have spotlighted. We include practices developed here at The Natural Gardener and by other gardening experts.

July

2005

Chinch bugs
Chinch bug damage is beginning to appear in area lawns. Dry lawns are always more vulnerable to these bugs. Organic maintenance and regular deep watering of your lawn will help to prevent Chinch Bugs from ever becoming a problem. If you do see brown spots appear in your grass (which, at this time of year, are less likely to be due to Brown Patch, and more likely to be the result of Chinch Bug damage), you can perform a simple test to identify the culprits. Take a coffee can with the top and bottom removed and sink it into the green edge of the brown patch (not the center). Fill it with water and, if present, some Chinch Bugs should float to the surface. Try this in several different parts of the affected area to be sure of the result. These bugs are 1/16th to 1/5th of an inch long, with dark bodies and light wings.

There are several products you can use to control Chinch Bugs. Diatomaceous Earth is a great first choice for treatment. You can also use Safer Brand Yard and Garden Spray (Pyrethrin-based insecticidal soap), Diatect V (a mix of Diatomaceous Earth and Pyrethrin), or use diluted Erath Earth Compost Tea (a mix of Compost Tea, Molasses, and Citrus Oil) as a soil drench. Top-dressing your lawn with compost this fall will also contribute to the overall health of the soil and lawn, thus helping to prevent problems with Chinch Bugs. Look for our "Organic Lawn Care Guide" in the store for more ideas to properly care for your lawn.

Mealybugs
Mealybugs show up on the stems and leaves of plants as odd, fluffy, white "fuzz" with little fluffy, white critters in the center. Not only is the infestation unsightly, but it can cause significant damage to your plants. Often, they can be blasted away with strong spray of water from the hose. The Bug Blaster, a nozzle for use with your watering wand, is specifically designed for this task. A soap spray (2 to 4 teaspoons of a biodegradable soap, such as Ivory liquid to one gallon of water) will also help to control most soft-bodied insects. A very serious infestation can be controlled with an insecticidal soap spray with pyrethrin, like Safer brand Yard and Garden Spray. (Before spraying,look first to see if beneficial insects are already there trying to do the job.) Good plant care and a weekly foliar feed with Maxicrop Liquefied Seaweed will help plants resist these infestations.

2004

Mosquito Control
Get the whole neighborhood involved in preventing a huge mosquito invasion. Mosquito larvae are hatched in standing water. Fifty larvae can be hatched in just one tablespoon of water. Think about all the little tiny-tiny places that can hold that small amount of water - the saucer of a flower pot, a child’s shovel, the top of a spray can that was left out. Then you can go to the larger places - the birdbath, a tire, the gutter that backs up ever-so-slightly, all will hold water for the 24-48 hours that it takes to produce a mosquito. You need to go around and empty all of these sources of water and you need to get your neighbors to do this also. If you are down wind from the neighbors and they have a lot of standing water, you will probably have mosquitoes. If you cannot empty the water, use the mosquito bits and dunks to kill off the larvae (see product of the week.)

Solarize Weeds
Take advantage of the Texas July and August sun. Get rid of unwanted patches of weeds or grass by solarizing. The process of solarization takes at least a month. If you are dealing with common weeds and grasses, water the area thoroughly. If you are dealing with the really nasty stuff – Bermuda and nut grass spray the area with Green-Go (20% vinegar and Orange oil) right before solarization. After soaking the area with water or using the Green-Go, cover the area with a clear plastic, and hold the edges down securely with soil, rocks, and the like. This "seal" around the edges is very important. The plastic should be at least 4 mil thick; 6 mil is better. This is creating the "greenhouse effect" under the plastic: the sun’s energy gets through the clear plastic, but gets trapped as heat underneath, baking the top layer of soil and the Bermuda or other weeds. Leave this in place for at least two weeks. Then remove the plastic, till the area to bring the roots up to the surface, and water and cover again for at least two weeks. When this is all done, remove the plastic and start watering again to see if the rascals will come back from any millimeter of root left behind. At this point it would be a good idea to have that vinegar on hand to spritz any sprouts that emerge. Keep up with this process until you see a distinct lack of lawn or weeds.

Using Compost Tea Effectively
Compost tea is an excellent product for many areas of the garden. Be sure to apply your compost tea in the evening or very early morning hours. This prevents the compost tea from evaporation. After you get your compost tea home, be sure to take the cap off to allow for airflow, store in a cool place, and use within 8-10 hours. Untreated water, like rainwater, is best to use. If you need to use city water allow it to stand to let the chlorine evaporate. It is best to get your soil tested to determine how often you need the compost tea. If you do not have test you could start by using it every week or so for a month, then once a month for the rest of the first year. After that you can just use it every time you fertilize which is usually about three times a year. One gallon will treat about 5,000 square feet. Remember you can really boost your garden’s results if you use the compost tea in conjunction with compost such as the Revitalizer.

Mini Garden in a Pot
While you may not feel like tackling a whole garden bed in this heat, you may feel up to creating a mini garden in a pot to add a new splash in your garden or on your patio. After choosing a pot, look for plants that meet your sun/shade requirements and have the same basic watering needs, i.e. no cactus/fern combinations! Choose plants for texture and color in the foliage especially as this will provide the art and architecture of your arrangement. Blooms are brief but foliage is forever or at least until winter.

Once you’ve selected a group of plants that look good together, providing good contrast and elegance, you’re ready for soil. Fill your pot nearly to the top with a good quality potting soil like Vortex, allowing for the depth of the root ball for the size of the plants you’ve chosen. At this point, add handfuls of your favorite amendments. Rabbit Hill’s Cottonseed meal, Minerals Plus, and Buds & Blooms are an excellent combination for getting rapid healthy growth, root establishment, and prolonged bloom. Mix in your amendments thoroughly. One by one remove plants from their plastic pots and gently massage the root ball to loosen them up and break their root-bound habits. Place them all in the pot how you like them and then stand back and look at the overall effect before filling in with soil.

Don’t be afraid to really cram in the plants, they’ll fill in fast and give you an immediate look of abundance. If you’re using some seasonal annual color, they’ll need to be replaced long before they crowd each other out. Remember to add plenty of soil, as it will settle in with each watering. When it’s all planted, water it with a dilution of liquid seaweed to prevent transplant shock and aid in the overall plant health. Now all that’s left is to find the perfect spot and sit back with a glass of iced tea and admire your creation. Enjoy!

Watering in the Heat
Watering - These are just some reminders for watering during these hot days of summer.

• Water in the early morning or late afternoon.
• Water appropriately for the types of plants in the bed.
• Watering deeper and less frequently is better than watering more often for shorter periods of time.
• Areas that get deep shade will need less water than areas in full sun.
• Turn off the sprinklers if we are getting periods of good soaking rains.
• Automated sprinkler systems are very convenient. However, for the reasons above, it may be necessary to manually adjust them (or turn off sections) to make the water right for the area.
• Drip systems are wonderful for getting water where you need it with out wasting our precious water resources.

2003

Garden Safety in the Heat
Gardening in Central Texas can be very dangerous this time of year so it is time to remind everyone of how to garden safely.

• DRINK WATER - do not wait until you are thirsty, that is too late. Drink plenty of water before, during and after working in the garden. Athletes often start hydrating themselves the day before the event.
• EARLY OR LATE - try to get your gardening done early in the morning or after the sun starts setting (remember to protect yourself from mosquitoes during these times.)
• SHADE - if working during the heat of the day, try to do tasks when they are in the shade.
• HAT - always wear a hat that will help keep you cooler and protect your skin from the sun.
• SUNSCREEN - apply it as often as necessary.

Early signs of heat related illness include: dizziness; fatigue; irritability; difficulty in concentrating; arm, leg or stomach cramps; and prickly heat rashes. If you have any of these symptoms get inside, relax, and drink plenty of water. Water should be cool, not cold, and be drunk slowly, a cup or so every 15 minutes. Usually water is sufficient and the best, but if you have cramps, a sports drink will help.

Advanced signs of heat related illness include the above plus: loss of coordination; collapse; heavy sweating; cool; moist; pale skin; dry mouth with thirst; fast pulse; and low temperature.
Heat stroke is life threatening and requires immediate medical attention. Symptoms include: dizziness; confusion; headaches; irrational behavior; coma; reduced or no sweating; fast pulse; rapid breathing; convulsions; nausea; or vomiting.

Mosquito Control
With all the rain we have had lately it is time to be diligent about mosquito control. Mosquitoes breed in water so we need to remove the sources of standing water from around the house. Some obvious and less obvious places of standing water are listed below.

• Empty all standing water in tubs, buckets, tires, etc.
• Watch for water build up in the base of pots and drain.
• Clean out birdbaths regularly. Birdbaths and ponds can also be treated with bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (this is a different subspecies then the BT used for caterpillars.) BT israelensis is found in Mosquito Dunks and Mosquito Bits.
• Fix drainage or fill in low areas that allow water to stand after rain.
• Empty trashcans or drill a drain hole in the bottom of cans that are exposed to rain.
• Fix leaky pipes from irrigation systems or hoses.
• Clean out leaves and debris in gutters.
• People often believe that mosquitoes are breeding in grass, ivy, or other areas that are in the shade. These areas are where the adult mosquitoes hide from the heat and sun. These areas are best treated by keeping grass mowed and other areas cleaned up and trimmed.

Transplant Help
Give those new transplants a little help. When planting this time of year for the fall garden, plants like tomatoes can really have a hard time establishing. There are several things you can do when you plant tomatoes to relieve the stress. Many of these tips can be used for other plants as well.

• Make sure soil is well prepared with compost and feeding amendments such as cottonseed meal.
• Pinch off Lower leaves and plant the tomato plant deep. The stem will produce additional roots where it is covered by the soil.
• Provide the plant with some shade from the mid-day sun with shade cloth or even a piece of cardboard propped up on the sun side of the plant
• Water consistently especially when the root structure has not been established. This may mean daily watering in the beginning.
• One tip we have gotten is to cut off the bottom of a two litter plastic bottle and bury it halfway in the soil (top down). Add water and it will slowly percolate into the soil.
• Use seaweed when watering in the new transplant and as a weekly foliar feed.
• Do not forget to feed the plants, as tomatoes are heavy feeders.

Plant Maintenance
Keep your plants producing. Regular maintenance of your plants will keep them healthier, producing longer, and better looking. Maintenance falls under several categories. Dead heading - clip spent blossoms back to keep blooms coming. If the flower is left to go to seed the plant thinks it has done its job and will stop sending out flowers. This is also true with picking fruit or vegetables that are past their prime - they need to be picked and used or composted if you want the plant to produce more. Another type of maintenance is pinching off blossoms before they bloom of plants you want to stay green and bushy. A good example of this is pinching off the buds of basil to produce more foliage and keep the basil sweet.

In addition, regular fertilization is necessary to keep your plants blooming throughout the summer. Fish emulsion or John’s Recipe are both good examples of the mild fertilization needed during these particularly hot months (1-2 times a month.) And finally, don’t forget the weekly treatment of liquid seaweed. This one product is best at helping your plants handle the summer heat and operate at their peak throughout the rest of the summer.

See our July To-Do List

See our July Articles: Reflections on Life and Organic Gardening

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